Friday, 18 August 2023

Summer 2023 - Tulum

It is hard to believe our month-long adventure in the Caribbean is reaching its end! It took us a moment to dive in, but we have become quite attached now to the laid-back and friendly mexican way - and tempo - of living. Here comes some words of confession. As a family travelling solo, Riviera Maya is not as "accessible" as many other places we have travelled. Few reasons for this: Stratospheric prices - I have spent a 4-fold amount on groceries compared to home. No idea how the locals manage. The same goes for activities - the main activities for families (ie. water parks) would cost a whopping 500-600 dollars for our family (compared to around 150 in Europe..). Very upsetting. Access to beach: the sad reality is screaming loud and clear - the foreign luxory hotel chains have eaten-up the beautiful beaches along the Riviera Maya and the locals are squeezed into tiny patches of beach often rocky and bearly accessible not to mention pleasurable. One evening we adventured to a street just off the main avenue to discover the life of locals - a shanty town in all its meaning with the "homes" built of whatever left-over metal pieces attached to each other, families over a few generations sitting outside, kids playing in the dusty road, skinny dogs wandering around the rubbish and dirt. Overall, there does not seem to be a city planning ongoing in this originally small fishing village, but it appears to be growing organigally on the whims of the big investors. Beurk. As for the security, well, following a shooting a few days earlier at the hotel zone in Cancun, extra security measures were put in place and the military was very present in the streets. Fortunately, we didn't face any issues during our stay and felt safe however obviously took precautions to stay together and avoid wandering off the main streets (by foot after dark). We had also chosen to stay in a safe area of the village in a beautiful gated and guarded condo. Have to mention the heat: the days had to be structured accordingly - we departed early tovisit Chitzen Itza and Tulum ruins and planned water breaks after every couple of hours either at a cenote, beach or the hotel pool. Water became an absolute priority in all forms and as a mom, yes, my daily quest was to run after the kids ensuring their hydration and protection from the sun. Summa summarum, we got the exotic experience we searched for, we enjoyed the amazing Caribbean sea and experience snorkelling the caves. Most importantly, we all got to see my little sister, which made the whole stay more meaningful beyong words. The perspective of travelling 24h back home is still heart warming (even only for a few days before embarking for the last part of our summerholidays). Hasta la proxima Mexico!

Saturday, 5 August 2023

Summer 2023 - Playa de Carmen Cenotes

Perfect two days behind us with my little mexicaine sister visiting the beautiful cenotes of the area: the popular 2 eyes and the Garden of Eden. Very proud of my little tribe again for their sportiveness - despite the colds even my 5 yo bambino snorkelled through the semi-caves in 24 celsius water (feels quite chilly in contrast to the +34 celsius sea water!). The stalactitis formations are fascinating and the fish abondant. Opinions were divded whether the lushness of Eden won over the handsome 2 eyes. Both days, we enjoyed local dishes in local restaurants: fresh guacamole, nachos and vegetarian fajitas with wild rice and frijoles salsa. My senses were singing. This afternoon our hunt for the nice, family beach was finally rewarded and we enjoyed the chilled afternoon snorkelling in the milk-warm Caribbean waves close to Tulum. Nevertheless, it did not beat my longwaited and pre-meditated evening listening my sisters news, travel tales and other stories while sipping ginger tea laye into the night. Life is good!Namaste

Tuesday, 1 August 2023

Summer 2023 - Playa del Carmen 2

So. Gathering my thoughts here. First second impressions of Playa. My last visit to this stretch of Riviera Playa dates to mindblowing 17 years back. My sister had moved to df and was proud to present her new home country. I adventured alone from df through the jungle in an economic local bus fir 18 long hours. I stopped at Palenque in the jungle, and San Cristobal de las Casas to sense this indigenous little village in Chiapas. I stayed in Playa with my sisters friends, hanged out in local restaurants and partied in the 5th avenue. The place appeared very laid-back and exotic to me at the time. Having lived with Dr. Oatkers cereal bars for several days, I recall the heavenly tasty taco I ate in a local eatiry. My taste buds get still watery just recalling it! Our first days in Playa in 2023 have been in a little different colours. Not all can be explained by age and life that may have dimmed a bit all experiences. We took our kids to the 5th avenue. The heat and humidity absorbs ones organs with an incredible force. We had searched a budget restaurant and decided to take immediately shelter. I sense the importance locals place un pleasing and offering great service to tourists and the family running our restaurant really made the effort to be fast and efficiant with a smile. As for Playa, it appeared as many other tired shopping streets in the world with H&M and other common brands. Perhaps one exception was the drug dealers, in the middle of the street, looking young, musculous and handsom, thinking they will make a sale to parents with many young kids. In conclusion, they must have had some success. My eldest's day was complete following a visit to the iconic Hard Rock Cafe. My heart melted a bit in nostalgie, as I still recall having been fun of the phenomenon myself in the 90s. Oh, and following the record-beating expensive croissant in Santo Domingo airport (5 us dollars), I beat it now also for a ball of ice cream (5 us dollar each). I feel awed and pissed off. Gladly, we also got to discover the closest beach to our hotel before the misfortunes started. The public beach had a tiny public access between the humangous luxory hotel chains, which strech tens of km along in the Riviera Maya. There was a bit sargasse seaweat, but locals were quick to clean it. Water was nice and warm and kids saw some fishes as well. A nice moment all-together. Our second trial in the afternoon to another beach 30 min.drive away ended with a disappointment, as we learned all public beaches close at 5 pm. Had to know that! I miss dearly my little mexicaine sister to give heads-up in all these details. This morning started with gloomy news, as we discovered that not only my husband's flue has gone worse, but my son had fever, strong head-ache and vomited the glass of water I gave him. Fortunately there is a pharmacy and medical centre next door and so (maternal concern overcedes language barriers and self-consciousness!) I managed to explain my sons condition and get medications for him (yes, in Spanish). Thank you non-regulated country, I got antibiotics over the counter, another challenge was to find the correct posologie..I could not believe myself listening to you tube video to find this information, but desperado situations demands desperado measures. I truly did not want to take my son to the over-crowded university hospital not far from here. Who knows what we would catch from that visit as a souvenir! Fortunately, thanks to my ever resourceful little sister and her doctor friend we received the information. With the heat I truly hope my son will feel better soon. Long day behind and it is hardly afternoon. My other highlight of the day was the explanation I received from the hotel technician (of course in Spanish) on his cleaning process of the hotel pool. Well I had to ask and be convinced given my bambinos are using it daily. I have been already getting grips of sanitizing vocabulary much needed for my vegetables and keeping a check of kids not using the tab water. Not even for brushing their teeth. I feel like being a tourist abroad. I ask myself, if I would want to return home already? No. not that bad. I've got this, girl! Let the rest of our holidays glow brighter, namaste.

Sunday, 30 July 2023

Summer 2023 - Mexico - Playa del Carmen

Black Saturdays. The concept from our 2020 Roadtrip along the Atlantic coast has a Grande Return. The term refers to our typically extra-intense day of changing places including check-out/cleaning, travelling (taxi, flights, searching car-rentals, driving among irrespectable people), finding hotel/house, checking-in, grocery shopping (super tiring), preparing dinner, washing laundry, showering and calming kids to bed, intending with my husband to celebrate our heroism with a glass of Chardonnay, but rarely made it before dropping out of shere fatigue. This time the exhausting day started at 3.30 am in Juan Dolio Dominican Republic and ended here in Mexico's Playa del Carmen. I am comfortably writing this entry from the comfort of my bed. I have been waiting this moment like full moon for several months. Not only is the above items checked for today, also the most adventurous part of our journey is behind. I have been ill-anxious about so many aspects regarding this summer's trip you probably would not expect of such a seasoned traveller as I am (or maybe because of that, eh): whether to give malaria prevention to kids or not, how about the mosquito net (not given and they are now fully patched with mosquito bites), travellers illness ( we've all had it now for a week and my well-established medical cabinet is half-empty), flying a long-haul low-cost airline (landed in one piece, still not enjoying), the safety in DR (can kids go to toilet by themselves without being kidnapped- yes they did at the hotel areas, apparently more of a problem in mx as I learned). What else have I worried? Oh, the quality of wifi connection at the hotels and how to manage the time difference (no issues) . My scare list goes on (sorry for the boring listings): No-show paid taxi (happened today), night travelling in Santo Domingo (scary as hell in a taxi for 4 persons accomodating 6 with our shitcases BELTED in the open trunk!), ultra low-cost, ultra bumpy and frightening flight to Cancun, driving from Cancun to Playa (even the nice gentlemanny venezuelan flight pilot in Santo Domingo airport warned about Cancun not being safe and to keep eyes on kids at all times). Back to this moment of bliss and relief. As said I hope to beleive the most stressful part of our trip is behind. Now my energies will be canalised to welcoming my lovely mexican little sister with us in a few days!!! And by the way today is my first day of Holidays! Welcome Playa and good vibes!! Finally, Thank you my Dear Loving Guardian Angels for having brought us here safe. Namaste.

Sunday, 23 July 2023

Summer 2023 - Juan Dolio

The universal eternal balance in life..It was evident that after a week high in paradise there had to come the descent..We left Punta Cana with hearth warming greetings from our newly made friends and hopped into a 10-seater with Mr. Santander who guided us the next 2,5 hours through the penisula to our next destination called Juan Dolio close to Santo Domingo. Santander suggested avoiding the highway being dangerous and hence we took the country side road through the local villages. It was a culture shock for my children, they had never seen poverity to this extent. My son could not keep up with his questions himself: "Mom, why are the cows so skinny, why is there so much rubbish everywhere, why are there many houses unfinished?" Indeed, it was a good opportunity to discuss with a fresh 8 year old about the differences in the living conditions in the world and realize the very priviledged life we are blessed with in Europe. A memorable scenery was a road disappearing in front of us as the storm Fiona had wiped away the bridge in the middle of a village not so long ago. We could hear from Santander the sadness and seriosity in his voice when speaking of these storms which hit the Dominican Republic more hazardiously and stronger than before. I was looking around the shabby huts thinking they offer no chance of sheltering what so ever. In a village Santander stopped to get some cold red bull. Apparently he had been driving already several rounds this morning and felt tired. This is not something I wanted to hear as he was driving the most precious package of mine. I had to be creative. Warm coca cola did not do the deal, but a half pack of kids Haribos was accepted by our young driver (and he finished it in one go). What else did we learn from Santander - family is important as long as you bring in money (.), monogamy does not exist and the caribian love has no boundaries (..), the president is corrupt gathering all the wealth to his family, and last but not least, Punta Cana is a a hub for international criminals in escape (with lots of wealth) hinting the international law does not reach this distant corner of the world. As we get closer to our destination Santander starts to inquire why we had to leave our previous hotel, which made me a bit uneasy. I notice there is no security neither any gate to access the hotel, contrary to the heavy protocol in place with reservation checks and armed security guards in our previous home away. The last glimple of Santander as he waves good buy to us and whispers to me "cuidado" "be careful". So here starts the second part of our experience in the Caribian. We are completely immerged to a latin movie scene as we enter the hotel lobby late in the afternoon. It is super hot and humid. The place is packed and bustling with people with their luggage waiting to leave or arrive, the reception has a long line to wait, people are making lots of noises (positive I like to think) and merengue beats in the background. We look at each other with my husband and I ask whether he had already paid for the hotel. He nods. We wait for our turn (while I take my son three times to the toilet - the first travel diarrhea, not at all surprising given the mix of cream cakes he ate three times a day for a week..). The evening did not get much better - the hotel had not received our reservation for the second room and it took 2 hours in the managers office, 50 eur call to the internation travel customer service. 100 dollar deposit to get an extra room for the time the agency clarified the mistake (not theirs, the hotels). Thanks to my husbands Spanish and determination we ended the day in two rooms, kids showered and fed with warm dominican dinner. Oh, and the evening trip to the roadside kiosk where I was ripped off 7 dollars for a dusty cleaning product (had to be paid to be able shower my babies). We were happy and tired bunch to lay down for the night, believe me. As the new day started things have started looking better. The 4 stars hotel is actually 2 stars in Europen standards, but having recovered from the initial shock, we decided to change our frame of mind and look for the positives. The rooms are modern, with fan & airco and quality wifi. The beach with the Caribean scenery just in front is breathtaking. The personnel is authentic and friendly, they clearly love children very much. The atmosphere is unpretentious, the food in the restaurant is local and hygiene is prioritised. Renting kayaks and masks are free of charge. I find myself completelg mesmerised by observing the local families so much full of positive vibes, noise and laughter seemingly enjoying each other (probably bringing all their 2 cents in if to believe Santander). The personnel in the restaurant are efficient and are not seemingly running after dollars, they are just busy doing their job. We had a great morning snorkeling with the kids and witnessed the marine life still very much vivid on the coast: crabs, morenas, ray fish and little yellow rainbow fishes I think. And we made our first collection of little shells. I ask myself - what better could I offer to my kids and ourselves than discovering the culture in its authenticity, isn't this the very reason of traveling and to also experience a bit of adventure? Enriching life experiences. (Provided that we stay healthy and safe this week..).

Friday, 21 July 2023

Summer 2023 - Punta cana 2

Our last day in this blessed paradise is in the horizon. The whole family has very much fell in love with the place. The week has been rich in all senses: the warmth of both the wheather and the dominicans, the lushness of the nature, the variaty of food to meet all possible tastes and beyond, the good energy of the place with many young families around. Not to forget the carabian rhytms and yesterday's night beach party with dance and fire show, which will stay in our memories for a long time. The kids have been taken to sing karaoke, get their face painted, experience their first dives. They have made new friends from Venezuela, United States, Greece and with locals - language is no issue with this bunch who manage well in English and Spanish. They are curious to see different families - the common thread being all appear to be united and having great time together. For us, it is also the first time for a long time we are actually all together in the water at the same time, throwing balls or kids doing saltos. The water is so incredibly warm, it is the only place to stay for the long ours of the days. After the intense work centered winter I was already worried my heart was no longer able to sing or feel the bliss,but suddenly I feel again a re-connection, happiness and joy.

Wednesday, 19 July 2023

Summer 2023 - Happy birthday in Punta Cana

For the first time I thought I would not be able to make it this time - pack the life of 6 for 4 weeks in just 2 suitcases. After 2 days of re-adjustments (and prioritisation) and a few extra kg bought we managed to close the bags..My usual travel fever has been full on for weeks now resulting in 4 am sweats of forgotten vaccins, hasty notes on the "to-do" list by the bed side drawar and nightmares having read of "bermudas triangle" to my son as evening tales. We are, after all, going to cross the big Sea tempting the first long-haul flight with the kids. I have reasoned to myself that it is not actually much longer than our usual journey up North (flight to Hki or Madrid - 7h train/8h plain). Our biggest concern was how to entertain our 5 yo.in the plane.I was picturing the tantrums in the DR immigration point 1 am in the morning. And? Maybe because of the intense pre-visualisation, when the difficult moment happened I had the much needed chupachups in my purse.Yey! At the end, the trip went flawlessly - flights on time, transport waiting with our name on the sign, hotel reception welcoming. The first few days can be described with positive superlatives only. I get moved by the joy of our kids discovering the tropical nature (and wheather, the humidity..!) the breathtaking choico of Food in the restaurant...I knew my son's appetite is insataible, but have to admit my jaw dropped when my little girl finished a full donut for breakfast. After her cereals and minny mouse pancake..on the other hand, given the humid warmth, we stayed all practically 8 hours in the pool yesterday. And learned to dance Bachata into the Carabian night. Reasons for a good appetite! Today was probably THE most important and high-pressure day of the whole summer (and contributing to my panicky packing) - my sons's 8th birthday! He had been raisin his expectations for several weeks now, worried about gifts and cake and suprises and whether they would actually make it to the Caraibes. So we had conversations with probably 5 different persons at the hotel yesterday to ensure they would make the day for him. The happiness in his little face when 10 dominicans come singing to him! The day reached its perfection for him with the very first diving lesson in the pool (competing the top place with the huge police car with blinking lights we carried from home). These moments are irreplacable and make all the efforts worth it. Feel so ever grateful and relieved.

L'été 2026 - le retour en France

Voilà, bientôt on entame la dernière semaine de nos grandes vacances de cinq semaines ! Comme déjà plusieurs années nous retournons au côté ...